Wednesday, May 28

Done with Cairo, not with Egypt

For an idea of the scale, keep in mind that Egypt is twice the size of France, just a little bit smaller than Alaska, and bigger than Texas, Oklahoma, and Arkansas combined.


Hello everybody. Sorry for the delay in the posts about the big trip, but it's gonna be a little longer still. Finals and packing owned my life for the last week or so, plus we spent last weekend at the desert, which was very time-consuming. Immediately after finishing all my work, I headed out of Cairo. I was lucky enough to have all my finals assigned before the finals period, which means I get to use that time to see parts of Egypt I've been too lazy to get to until now. Yesterday I took a train to Alex and then a bus from there to Siwa Oasis. Siwa is one of Egypt's most beautiful and interesting oases. It's in the very Northwest of the country, only about 50 km from Libya. The culture was totally isolated from Egypt for most of its history, and they still speak their own language, Siwi (which is a Berber dialect... not even related to Arabic), in their personal interactions. Anyway, it's a pretty cool place so far. This afternoon I'm going out on a desert safari to the Great Sand Sea. While the Black and White Deserts which we visited last weekend are probably the most interesting deserts in Egypt, the Great Sand Sea is what one thinks of when the word desert is uttered. It's basically miles and miles of gigantic dunes and very fine sand. I'm pretty pumped.

After I finish in Siwa I go all the way back to Cairo, this time via Mersa Matrouh, to take an overnight train to Aswan, way in the south. I'll stay there for a day, then head even farther south to Abu Simbel, a fantastic ancient Egyptian temple that was totally relocated brick by brick when the Aswan High Dam was built forty years ago and Lake Nasser was created. Abu Simbel is about 50 km from the Sudanese border. I'm really going directly from one corner of the country to the other. Pretty krazy. But it's gonna be great. After that, I'll head north to Luxor where Peter is flying in to meet me. Unfortunately, he didn't get so lucky with his finals schedule, and they go right up until two days before we leave. He has to fly or else he wouldn't get the chance to see Luxor, which is an absolute must. It is right next to the ruins of Thebes, one of the great capitals of Ancient Egypt. So we'll spend a night and a day there and then fly back to Cairo, shoot over to our apartment, grab our stuff, go back to the airport, and fly home. Our flight gets into Boston around 2:30 PM on Wednesday, June 4. I really can't believe how fast this all happened, and that I've said goodbye to all my buds already. It's pretty sad, but I'm excited to come home, too.

Anyway, I gotta go enjoy myself in Siwa while I can. I'll get more posts up soon after we return, in shah allah.

Wednesday, May 21

Ελλάδα

The blue is the train from Athens to Thessaloniki, the yellow is the buses from Thessaloniki to Katerini and Dion, the green is the train to Istanbul, and the red is the border.


So here it finally is: the long-awaited blog entry about our trip. Actually this is just about Greece. It'll probably be a little while before we get everything up to date. A lot has happened since we touched down in Athens more than a month ago. And trust me, it's all blogworthy. So you know, the most time-consuming part of these entries is getting all the pictures in and making them look nice, and since time is of the essence in these last few days we have in Cairo, I'm killing two birds with one stone and just attaching links to each of the photo albums I've posted on Facebook of our trip. The blog entries won't look quite as pretty, and you'll have to open another window, but this way you get more pics and I save time. Here is the link to Greece's.

The night of our departure was filled with frantic packing while simultaneously trying to book my mom a hotel in Cairo, write out postcards (which many of you hopefully received), as well as finish "To Helwan and Back." I managed to get everything done except for the last one, and we headed out around 11:30 PM for the airport. By the time we finally got on the plane, all three of us were beyond exhausted, and none of us really have any memory of the flight. We just passed out and the next thing we knew we were on the runway in Athens. We got off the plane and wandered confusedly through the airport until we found the metro into town. We finally made it into Athens around 7 AM or so, and we went straight to get breakfast in Kolonaki Square, which was more expensive than I remembered it. After that we wandered through the national gardens until we came to the Temple of Zeus, which was much more impressive than I recalled. Greek ruins are cool. From there we hit the Olympic Stadium (the old one), Hadrian's Arch, and then the Acropolis. We failed to consider just how heavy our backpacks would get, and carrying them around with us as long as we did that day was a mistake we would not repeat. By the time we made it past the Parthenon (impressive as usual), our backs were aching horribly. We wound up stopping several times at the agora and at the Temple of Hephaestus. I don't believe we visited either of those when I was in Athens the first time, and that's really too bad, since they were probably my favorite part of the city this time. After our whirlwind tour of Athens' most impressive ancient sites, we stopped to get some lunch at another place that was too expensive. I guess that's just what happens when traveling after living in a place as cheap as Cairo though; everything is too expensive. At the restaurant we met some New Yorkers who have a place in Bethel, which is where Peter has his ski camp, for those of you who weren't aware. Small world experience number one.

After lunch, we headed to the train station to pick up some tickets. We'd already bought the ones that evening at midnight to Thessaloniki, but the international ticket office was closed. Now that it was open, we went to book our tickets for Saturday night, but unfortunately they were sold out. As a result we had to shoot for Sunday night, which meant we'd only get one day in Istanbul. On the bright side, though, we'd get an extra hour with Kasia in Thessaloniki. We bought the tickets and made our way to the Archaeological Museum, but we got there too late, so we went to the next best center of learning: an internet cafe. Like most cities, the major sites in Athens shut down around dinner time, which meant we had to figure out something else to do until our train at midnight. Athens is in a big valley, flanked by mountains and dotted with abrupt hills, some of which we decided to climb. First we went up some random little hill which was pretty neat and had a nice view of the city, but that was just warming up. After that we walked across town to Mount Lykavittos, the highest point in the city. The climb took longer than it should have since we didn't really know the best way, but after forty minutes or so, we reached the top, just in time for a pretty amazing sunset. We could see the entire city: the Acropolis, the Olympic Stadium, ships moving back and forth by the port of Piraeus. It was pretty nice, but it got really freaking cold as soon as the sun started to disappear.

So we came back down... via a monorail! It actually sucked real bad. Biggest waste of three euros of my life. From the bottom we decided to try to walk back to the Acropolis area to get some dinner, and after much searching, we found a cheapish place. Food was definitely expensive in Greece, but it was amazing. I love souvlaki and gyros and whatnot. After dinner it was time to head to the train station, so we decided to take the metro, which would've gotten us there in plenty of time... if it had been RUNNING! It was around eleven and the whole metro was already shut down! We realized that it was too far to walk, so we'd have to take a cab... which of course were impossible to find. I mean, there were plenty, but they all had people in them. Just when we were really starting to get nervous, we nabbed one and made our train no problem.

The ride should have taken five hours, but we didn't get to Thessaloniki until seven or so. Peter and I both slept pretty well, but Matt didn't manage to get any sleep, so when we finally made our way to Kasia's apartment, he collapsed on her roommate's bed. It was great to see her again, especially for Peter, and we just hung out and shot the breeze until she had to go to class. We tried to plan our time there, but most of the plans we made at that point fell through, namely climbing Mt. Olympus, which it turns out is covered in ice in April, so the trails aren't even open. Oh well. Kasia went to class so Peter and I took naps as well. We woke up later that afternoon and Kasia had made us lunch, which was wonderful. After bumming around her apartment for a while and getting cleaned up, we decided to go out... which we didn't succeed in doing for another couple of hours or so. We got together with some friends of hers, Alyssa and Rob. Alyssa is a very nice and extra hospitable girl who also goes to Northeastern, and Rob is one of the most ridiculous people I've ever met in my life. He's from Norway and is just consistently bizarre and hilarious. Perhaps the most perfect anecdote about him pertains to his sock habits. He has a separate pair of socks for every day of the week, and each day says its day on it. We met him on Friday, and he was still wearing Thursday's socks, since he had gotten drunk the night before and not woken up until the early afternoon. Kasia told us a story about how one time he got in a fight with his girlfriend and broke a glass on her head. Later, telling Kasia about the incident, he claimed that the whole relationship was doomed anyway. He told her, "our relationship was fragile, like the glass."

Anyway, we finally got ourselves together and walked all the way downtown along the harbor, which was really beautiful. It's a much cuter town than Athens is, though it didn't seem to have as much to offer. When we finally found the taverna Kasia had in mind, we were blown away to find that it really did in fact offer the deal she had told us about: all you can eat [em]and[/em] drink for ten euros. Amazing! Needless to say we ate and drank our share, and everything was phenomenal. Afterwards we wandered around some more, stopped in a bar but found we were too tired to move, and so we returned to Kasia's pad to go to sleep. The next day we devoted to seeing the city's sites, which consisted of some neat Greek and Roman ruins as well as a few pretty badass Orthodox churches. To top it all off, we hit up the Museum of Byzantine Culture, which got some big award recently for being an awesome museum in Europe or something, and it was. We were constantly reminded of the region's importance to one of the world's great conquerors, Alexander the Great. He was from Macedonia, of which Thessaloniki is historically the capital. This became an interesting trend of the trip: the fact that as far as we traveled, there were several empires that each at one time had ruled all the area we traversed: Alexander's Macedonian Empire, the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire, and finally the Ottoman Empire. As a result, as diverse as the places we went were, architectural marks can be found the whole way from each of those four empires. Crazy!

In spite of a decent night's sleep, we were apparently still pretty exhausted from our traveling, so we decided to go back and take a nap at this point. It was around 5 or 6 PM, so we hoped to pass out for just an hour or so. Before we knew it, the morning had come and Kasia had left for her crazy spring break trip (she went to Italy, Spain, and England... also awesome). We woke up early to get going, as we planned on taking the bus to Dion, a very well-preserved ancient Macedonian city at the foot of Mt. Olympus. We got all our stuff together and were terrified to realize that Peter couldn't find his debit card. After searching crazily, Peter realized that his card looks identical to Kasia's, and he'd left it out the night before. We reasoned that she had most likely grabbed it thinking it was her own. And so began our real financial difficulties. Matt had his identity stolen a few months ago, so he's been working off money his parents have been wiring him here and there. Along the trip it would be tough to work out wirings, so we decided just to have his mom deposit money into my account. With Peter's card gone, the three of us were now all going to be relying on my card, which at the time didn't have enough to last us more than a couple days. Peter thus decided to call his mom and wake her up to ask her to put a good chunk of his money into my account so that we wouldn't get stranded a few days down the road.




And so we headed off to Dion. We first had to take a bus to Katerini, the nearest major town, and then a city bus to Dion. The ruins themselves were really well-preserved and beautiful, and it was neat to know that this ancient city was the place where Alexander gathered his troops and held a celebration before heading out on his great campaign, but the biggest attraction was definitely Mount Olympus. It was amazingly gorgeous. It really is no wonder that the ancient Greeks believed that gods and goddesses lived up there. The pictures we took cannot even begin to do justice to its majesty. I really wish we had been able to climb it, and after seeing it, climbing it became a definite goal of mine. It was also very nice to see some significant greenery. It was a beautiful day, and a good end to our time in Greece. After we finished there, we headed back to Thessaloniki and hopped on the train to Istanbul. It was a fantastic ride, and it really made me wish we could take sleeper trains everywhere. The train left around 8 PM, and we got to the Turkish border in the middle of the night. We bought our visas and then got back on the train, hoping to wake up and be in Istanbul.

Monday, May 12

A Quick Update

Hello loyal readers. So my mom made it home safe and sound. It was really great to see her, and it seems as though she really enjoyed herself here as well. It's nice to get a little repose from the constant traveling and sightseeing of the last three-and-a-half weeks, though. School is winding down soon, and I have a lot of work to do, but not too much. I'm hoping to travel all over Egypt during the next few weekends before I come home. I've still got a lot to see.

In other news, I finally got the chance to update To Helwan and Back with pictures and fix the typos and generally pretty it up. The text is essentially the same, so if you've already read it, don't worry about that, but you should definitely go back and see the last few pictures. 'Cuz they're AMAZING.

Also, this article is about a month old, but it's a must-read. Now you'll all understand if Peter and I come back and have trouble hearing things. Makes me proud.

Sorry it's taken us so long to post something significant about our trip. I got back and had a lot of work to do on top of my mom being here, but stuff has cooled down a little now, so I should be able to pop out at least an entry or two about it this weekend, though we are planning a short trip to Port Said. I'm gonna be catching up on this blog until July!

To placate you all, I've included a video of my mom getting on a camel at the Pyramids. Teeheehee.


Tuesday, May 6

Cairo Sweet Cairo

Sorry this is a little belated, but rest assured we did in fact make it home safe and sound. Israel was fun, if not particularly well priced, and the bus rides through the Negev Desert and the Sinai Peninsula were pleasant enough. My mom and I spent the day getting her acquainted with Al-Qahirah. We went to the Pyramids as well and rode camels, which we both enjoyed a lot. Today is also my birthday (I guess not technically anymore), so we went out to dinner and the boiz back home were awesome enough to get me an absurdly fantastic half fruit and vanilla, half chocolate cake. Pretty mumtaz.

Sunday, May 4

Mother Dearest

Chillin' at the Church of the Nativity. Apparently Jesus was born just beneath us.

So my mom got in with no real problems yesterday. We spent today seeing all sorts of sights in Jerusalem as well as Bethlehem, which it turns out means "House of Meat" in Arabic. Weird. Anyway, tomorrow morning we go see the Dome of the Rock on the Temple Mount, ilhamdullillah, and then it's off to Cairo. We leave Jerusalem at 10 AM, and we should get in to Cairo around 11 PM, I think. It's been a lot of fun, but I'm ready to take it easy, or at least slightly easier.

Thursday, May 1

Almost Done...

We've arrived in the Holy Land. Petra was unbelievable yesterday... really quite cool. And to top it off, we ran into our roommate Jay for the second time on this trip. Out of nowhere! Once in Istanbul, and once at the top of a mountain in Petra. Pretty ridonk. That same night we crossed into Israel and stayed in Eilat, a resort town on the Red Sea. Unfortunately we got there too late to do any swimming or sunbathing, and it was the eve of Holocaust Remembrance Day here, so everything was shut down, but it was still fun. We got up early this morning for a 7 AM bus to Jerusalem, and Casey was kind enough to meet us at the bus station. We were originally planning to go to the Sea of Galilee this afternoon, but it's another five or six hours on a bus altogether and, quite frankly, we're getting a little sick of buses. We're gonna wander around the old city now instead. I get my mom at the airport tomorrow, and Peter and Matt leave on Saturday to go back to Cairo. I won't go back until Sunday though. It's been an unimaginably crazy trip.